Friday, November 6, 2009

The Big Scoop




I’m very excited about creating Sorbet.Com and the International Sorbet Guild as the world’s crossroad and ultimate resource for information and education. Follow our blog for stories and advice from guest chefs and frozen dessert lovers. A fun and exciting feature on our site is the Cool Stuff for Kidspage. My wife, Diane, an award-winning writer created a story called What Happens Next/ The lead character, Professor Scoopalott, is loosely based on some of my favorite culinary chef instructors. http://www.sorbet.com/kids.html


Having graduated from the Culinary Institute of America in 1970, I’ve seen many trends come and go. Back then the adage was, “butter is better.” Smithfield Hams were covered with chaud-froid sauce (aspic jelly with the addition of cream) and decorated with playing cards cut out of food colored aspic sheets. It was common practice to save bacon grease to add to sauces and for sautéing vegetables. The word cholesterol was unspoken.

Before Häagen-Dazs, Breyers was considered to be arguably the best ice-cream in New York. There was also Schrafft's, Howard Johnson and Dolly Madison ice-cream. I remember in my early 20’s going to Greenwich Village with friends to stand in line for 45 minutes to get a scoop of Rum Raisin ice-cream from a tiny freezer in the 10 foot wide street shop. It was Häagen-Dazs. You had to know where it was because it wasn’t advertised. It was the big underground secret. At the time most everyone thought it was made in Denmark. Soon they began producing pints with a map of Denmark on top, only sold at select gourmet stores in Manhattan. We later found out it was actually made in the Bronx.

At the Culinary Institute (known as the CIA), we learned to make only very basic vanilla, chocolate and strawberry ice-cream. Sorbet flavors consisted of lemon and pineapple.
Sorbet was only served as intermezzo between the fish and meat course to cleanse the palate at a Chaîne des Rôtisseurs type eight-course dinner.

But I managed to consistently bewilder my pastry instructor by making ice-cream out of leftover carrot-raisin salad from the production kitchen. I made sorbet out of Apple Jack that my roommates and I fermented in our dorm-room closet.

Back then people were keeling over from heart attacks. (Actually we lost a chef instructor to a heart attack). When my young Uncle Lenny died suddenly from a heart attack, they later discovered his cholesterol was over 400.

In the 80’s fat-laden foods were bad for you. Light foods were good for you. Enter sorbet with all its fat-free and healthful benefits, naturally. Of course now it seems we’ve leveled out. Full fat ice-cream is an indulgent treat. Sorbet is a healthful refreshing dessert with an endless variety of intense flavors.
Chef Lou DeCillis

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